Eclectic Entropy - Guam Travel and Living: Side Trip

"Some Japanese people very afraid."

Our cab driver was commenting on our question about Japanese people wearing white masks, which we had noticed occasionally on Guam and more frequently in Kyoto. Our driver went on, "They are afraid of the pollution from China. It is silly."

"The cab driver before you refused to take us; he had on a mask. He said he was going home."

"Oh, very bad, bad cab driver; he should not have refused. I would not get in to a cab where driver wearing mask!"

The cabs in Kyoto were older, but all meticulously clean, staffed by older men dressed in uniforms with ties and often white gloves: clearly pride taken in their profession and their vehicles. But an English speaking cab driver was unusual.

"You speak very good English; where did you learn?"

"Oh, I live in London for four years; very long time ago, forty years!"

"Were you studying there?"

"Oh no, just having fun. I was playboy!"

It was our last day in Kyoto; we'd just finished with the last temple on our list, the magnificent Ni-no-maru Palace from which the Tokugawa Shoguns ruled for almost two hundred years in the 17th and 18th centuries, after having tired of serving their feudal masters, they decided to take over. Even though the actual Nijo Castle (Katsura Palace) was closed, the Ni-no-maru rooms, screens, and structure, and the palatial grounds were a fitting end to our sightseeing.

All that remained was to head back to our hotel and pick a place for dinner. We were exhausted from five days of walking hills and steps on hard granite, stone, and gravel surfaces and the cab ride was a very small splurge considering how inexpensive cabs are in Kyoto.

One of the reasons Silvia and I were so pleased to temporarily relocate on Guam was the opportunity to travel to South and East Asia destinations. Several major airlines fly to Guam and it serves as an Asian hub for United Airlines. Thus, non-stop flights to major Asian and Pacific destinations are numerous, and often reasonably priced.

Our first side trip was a quick weekend in Manila to meet my brother who was returning from a dive trip in the Philippines; more on that trip later. Our most recent trip was to Nara, Japan, a city famous for its historic Buddhist sites and the first unified capital of Japan; and Kyoto, the former imperial capital of Japan with ancient temples, shrines, and castles interspersed with a modern Japanese city of 1.5 million people, surrounded by low mountains.

Our plan for the trip was carefully laid out for a five-day excursion from a Thursday in late March to the next Tuesday. We would take a non-stop flight to Osaka; the train from Osaka airport to Nara; spend one night in Nara; the train from Nara to Kyoto; and finish with four nights in Kyoto. The end of March is sometimes cherry blossom season in this valley and both Kyoto and Nara are world famous for their spring awakening.

Booking hotels, we followed advice from our friend Lisa who had lived in Japan for four years. For our one night in Nara, we chose the Nara Hotel - built in 1909, and set in a beautiful park within short walking distance to all of Nara's most famous shrines and temples, it is considered the first "western style" hotel in Japan. The hotel was also famous for being the first French food restaurant in Japan and offered with the reservation a fixed price dinner, either French or tradition Japanese - we chose French.

In Kyoto, we knew we wanted to stay in the Gion district, which is known for its proximity to many of the main temple sites, it's nightlife, and it's narrow pedestrian streets lined with shops and restaurants. For our first night we chose Tamahan, a highly recommended Ryokan, or tradition Japanese hotel with low ceilings, wooden bathtub, floor mats, minimal and tasteful furnishings and meticulous personal and food service. Ryokan are also known for the settings of the rooms carefully focused on traditional gardens and privacy - they are meant to be retreats, even in the most urban of settings, as is true of Tamahan. Here we chose the Kaiseki dinner, the traditional Kyoto cuisine dating back to the 16th century, and served in our room.

Our final three nights were booked at the Hotel Sunline Kyoto Gion Shijo, a modern Japanese boutique hotel, meaning bigger rooms than the non-boutique variety and western-style bathrooms. Hotel Sunline was also in the Gion district, just a short five-minute walk from Tamahan, thus an easy transfer.

Having traveled recently to Manila, where cash stations and credit card acceptance was widespread, we assumed the same was true of Japan. Thus, we chose not to arrive with much American cash or bother to purchase any Yen in advance.

Online research about any travel destination is always spotty these days. Like all information on the Internet, one must use careful consideration and the proper personal filters to determine what is accurate and which advice to follow. I learned that Osaka Airport was modern and efficient and that a major train station was attached to it. In trying to figure out which train to take to Nara, I found there were two alternatives: the Kintetsu Line, a private train company (of which there are many in Japan), and the JR Line, Japan's national railway company. Surprisingly, the Kintetsu alternative seemed faster and slightly less expensive, and took us to the train station in Nara that was closest to our hotel, which appeared to be any easy ten-minute walk from the station. I dutifully searched Google maps and printed out maps indicating our walking route once arriving in Nara; a map of Kyoto showing both the main train station and our Ryokan in Kyoto; and a map showing the short walk from our Ryokan to our hotel in Kyoto. Google maps were confusing, however, as the street names and landmarks were primarily in Japanese and there was no English translation available on the maps. Other mapping sources were no better, but we figured a slightly confusing map was better than no map.

We also had our neighbor send us a small glossary of Japanese words and phrases. We knew that English is not widely spoken in Japan, but we did assume that key personnel who dealt often with tourists would likely have at least a rudimentary understanding of English. Too bad we didn't study our glossary a bit better.

Coming from tropical Guam, we wondered if we had lost our winter hardiness having now worn nothing but shorts and short sleeves for two months. Weather looked rainy and cold the first two days of our trip, so we were prepared with multiple layers, rain jackets, and umbrellas. The flight was near empty; a surprise in this modern day of packed airplanes. We arrived early in a shrouded Osaka; there was nothing to see but low mist and water on our approach into the airport.

Clearing customs was fast and efficient, once we figured out the Japanese fingerprint machines. Exiting into the terminal, it was easy to find English language signs pointing to the train station. But looking around, we saw nothing that resembled a cash station; lots of places to exchange money, but only from cash or traveler's checks. We figured the train station would surely have a cash station.

It was an easy walk to the station; we had packed minimally, so luggage transport was not an issue. The station itself, however, was a mass confusion to us. Some signage was in English, but there really was no apparent ticket counter, just machines to purchase your tickets with instructions completely in Japanese. It looked like the station for both the JR and Kintetsu lines.

After a few minutes of visual searching and avoiding the hustling crowd, we located what appeared to be a manned Kintetsu ticket office. We approached, and the agent understood enough English so that with his pre-printed sheets in English, he was able to tell us which train to catch and where to switch and how much. But upon presenting our credit card, we were denied: cash only!

The ticket to Nara wasn't expensive: 1200 Yen each, or $12 each. And, there was a currency exchange window. We opened our wallets and drained most of our American cash, putting together about $50 to change at the exorbitant rate available at the exchange window. The line was short, the service fast and efficient, and we were left with a few Yen after our ticket purchase to tide us over until we found a cash station in Nara.

We bought our tickets and went over where to change trains with the agent. We entered the station, immediately violating the rules by not inserting one of our tickets in the gate, which was open. Japanese trains are pretty much done on the honor system, and, although the gate made a beeping sound as Silvia went through, no one stopped us. However, we realized from watching the crowds exiting that it made sense, because you needed your ticket to exit also. For my entrance, we got it right.

We found two trains waiting on the Nara platform, one very nice, one more subway like, both apparently headed to our transfer station. Signage wasn't clear; so we took the subway like car because it appeared it was going to leave sooner. Later, after we'd more figured out the railway system, we realized the nicer train was a reserved seat "limited express" where you didn't have to change. But we had purchased the less expensive fare, so the train we chose was the correct one for us.

We found seats easily, although the train was nearly full when we pulled out a few minutes later and became packed along the route. It took us two or three stops and a couple of trips to the map over the door to finally feel confident we were on the right train headed in the right direction. We realized that key stations where transfers were necessary were also being announced in recorded English (although the announcements were not very loud and difficult to hear over the train noise.)

Osaka, and Japan immediately began to reveal herself through the train windows. Every square inch was covered with buildings crowding the narrow streets. The low clouds still prevented us from seeing into the distance, where we knew low mountains prevailed. But for the first part of our journey, it was Osaka prefecture, a city of 2.5 million, whose density made Manhattan seem like a suburb.

It took about 30 minutes or so to reach our transfer station and signage was good enough so that we easily found the waiting train to Nara. The train pulled out fairly soon after our arrival and our emotions shifted from nervous confusion to excited anticipation: we were in Japan!

The landscape outside the train window turned hillier and little patches of open space started to appear. Every open parcel was cultivated, either with new sprouts or awaiting early spring planting. We noticed the manicured landscape, each tree, especially those within courtyards of the now more commonly appearing houses, carefully shaped and groomed. Early flowers appeared here and there on Cherry and Plum trees, but it was clear that the height of spring was still at least a week or two away, and only if the weather turned warm.

Arriving in Nara and exiting the train station, we found our first cash station, but it wouldn't take foreign cash cards. It took us a few minutes to gather our bearings and figure out which direction to walk. The mist had turned into a cold drizzle of rain. We waited patiently for the walk sign, as the Japanese do, regardless of traffic, and headed towards our hotel.

Already we were surprised that Nara was so urban. We had envisioned a quiet hamlet in the countryside, but, although Nara is adjacent to low, majestic mountains and does have the beautiful Nara Park, it is a city of over 150,000 people. The map we had from Google did not perfectly correspond to the street names and landmarks we found. Despite the rain, the sidewalks were fairly crowded and we had to adapt to the Japanese habit of walking on the left instead of the right as we were used to, although we'd already somewhat modified our walking behavior on Guam because of the preponderance of Japanese tourists in our neighborhood.

Of course we got lost and realized we had walked quite a distance past the turn off four our hotel. The terrain was hillier than expected and we were already tired, cold and wet by the time we found the massive Nara Hotel and figured out the path to the entrance.

The entrance to the Nara Hotel (above)

The Garden in front of the Nara Hotel (above)

The room at the Nara.

The view from our room.

The door was manned by an older gentleman in hotel uniform who greeted us in Japanese and directed us inside. We noticed a check rack for umbrellas under the covered entrance to the hotel and followed custom and deposited our wet umbrellas in the device. Despite the long journey from Guam, train from Osaka, and our misguided walk, we were still almost two hours early for the 3PM check-in time.

Check in was efficient and friendly; our bags would be placed in our room when the room was ready. We inquired about cash stations and the hotel clerk gave us a better map of Nara, but she didn't know which machines might take an American cash station card. Having shed our bags, we realized we were hungry and curiosity and excitement renewed our energy. We took out back towards town.

Now oriented, we found our way back to a covered pedestrian area by the train station. Japanese attention to detail was apparent everywhere as seen below in the manhole cover:

Not much was open in the way of food, it was almost as if they participated in the siesta tradition in Japan. Regardless, we had minimal cash, and hunger drove us to find some inexpensive round, fried octopus dumplings that were 450 yen ($4.50) for twelve at a little stand by the pedestrian way. They were too hot to eat, so we wandered for a bit until we found a little bench to sit on and eat our scrumptious treasures.

Refreshed, we decided to inquire at a nearby bank about cash stations. The greeter spoke enough English to direct us to either the 7-11 cash station or the post office cash station to find the appropriate machine. After a misadventure with the post office machine (I think I requested some $3,000 in yen instead of my intended $300 so it kept refusing me), we had success at the 7-11. Lesson learned: while in Japan, use the cash stations at either a 7-11 (and they are ubiquitous in Japan) or a post office to access your American bank account.

The rain persisted and perhaps enough time had passed so we went back to our hotel. We were getting an idea of the grandeur of where we were, but given that the weather was supposed to be a little better tomorrow, we decided to not yet attempt to see the most important sights in Nara, the 3 story and 5 story pagodas and the legendary Todaiji Temple. We would get up early and try to get to Todaiji as it opened around 8AM.

The service at dinner that night in the elegant, high-ceiling, dark wood trimmed dining room was impeccable. And while the four-course meal was good, and the Sake excellent, it probably wasn't worth the 9000 yen ($90) per person cost. However, keep in mind that in Japan, tipping is not customary, and, in fact, it is considered an insult, so the price is inclusive of all taxes and gratuities.

We were up early the next day for our walk to the plum forest in Nara Park and then on to the Todaiji Temple complex. The day was cold and overcast, but the air crisp and the rain had stopped. Deer in Nara are protected and tame and frequently fed by the tourists who buy special biscuits for the task. Legend has it that the god of the Kasuga Taisha came riding a white deer in the old days, so the deer enjoy protected status as envoys of the god. They are, however, mangy and aggressive and for those of us used to eating venison, they enjoyed no magic or special status.

The walk through the park to the temple was magical despite the cold temperatures. (We found ourselves quickly re-acclimated to the cold; our Michigan hardiness hadn't completely abandoned us in Guam.) The perfectly manicured views and trees made us know we were in Japan.

The plum blossoms were just emerging and we could only imagine what they would be like in another week or so.

Nara was the birthplace of Buddhism in Japan, arriving during the 8th century AD. Today, 80% of the Japanese people describe themselves as Buddhists, and 90% describe themselves as Shinto, an older Japanese religion based upon reverence for ancestors and elders. These are not contradictory, and Japan's reputation as not being particularly religious is not the case. Nara, like Mecca to Muslims, is considered a place of pilgrimage, and Japanese Buddhists are supposed to visit Nara at least once in their lifetimes.

There really aren't words to describe the profound spiritual and intellectual experience of visiting the Todaiji Temple and its great Buddha. The Temple is the largest wooden structure in the world and was last rebuilt in 1709, scaled down to 2/3 of its original size. It is overwhelming; the pictures will do the rest of the talking, but can't replace or reproduce the impact of an actual visit. One strong word of advice: go first thing in the morning before the throngs of tour buses arrive!

The entrance pavilion (above)

One of the guardians in the entrance pavilion (above)

Todaiji Temple - note people in the foreground to get a feel for scale; a picture just can't convey it.

Detail at the entrance.

The massive bronze Buddha, the largest in the world.

Monks at prayer.

We headed into town to grab some breakfast and then planned to visit the 3 story and 5 story pagodas on our way back to the hotel where we needed to check out by 11AM. As we headed up the stairs to the first pagoda, we were greeted by a friendly older man in English who offered to show us around. These guides are free in Japan and are part of a good Buddhist's devotion.

He told us the stories of the early rulers and how they used the Buddhist priests to control the population, finding out from them about each family and what their needs and desires were, their weaknesses and strengths. He showed us the proper hand washing technique in the sacred fountains and the rituals and symbols of the pagodas and the beautiful Tokondo Hall. After experiencing the peacefulness, harmony, and awe of Todaiji, this education allowed us to appreciate the stories and people that go along with the monuments.